A Blistering Report
Last we chatted, I was a week away from heading out to hike 95 miles of the West Highlands
trail in Scotland. The trek averaged about 12 miles a day, and our suitcases were picked up
each morning and dropped off at our next inn, so we only had to carry our day packs.
Let’s start with the scenery: the Scottish Highlands are aggressively beautiful. Think brooding
mountains, wild moors, hundreds of streams and waterfalls, and misty rains that roll in and out
like they were from a gothic novel. The trail was allegedly “moderate,” a charming lie I now
realize, but the landscape quickly distracted you from the incline.
I appreciate a long stroll, or a brisk walk, but I am not by nature a hiker. So the first day’s
agenda of 15 miles did not trigger any red flags. Nor did the guidebook’s suggestion to take the
low route for the view, a tip that came without a warning that it would add another 6 miles of
rocky terrain to the day’s total. One graphic best sums up the day, see the picture with the
purple squiggles? The relatively straight red line is the regular trail, and the purple line was our
path on the low trail as recorded on my HiiKER app as we scrambled up and down the rocks..
And did I mention it was an unusually hot, humid, sunny day?
I set out with sturdy boots, good socks, and a romantic notion that I would “find myself”
somewhere between Rowardennan and Inveraman. Eleven hours and 21 miles later I found
myself alright, staggering into the Drovers Inn snarling like a banshee and cursing Dr. Scholl
under my breath. After a Scottish ale, some fish and chips, and a handful of Advil things
improved.
The Drovers Inn, btw, is known for being one of the most haunted places in the UK. All the
midnight wailing and gnashing of teeth you hear about? It’s the hikers. Trust me on this one.
The rest of the trip was less painful, but very memorable. The days cooled, the rain rolled in and
out, and each day the landscape changed dramatically. It’s not surprising that so many movies
and shows are filmed in the area. There were some challenges, like the Devil’s Staircase which
is both a name and a warning. Built in 1750, it’s a steep zig-zagging path of stone steps that
sharply climbs 1,800 feet to the highest elevation of the West Highland Way. Like the trail itself,
it’s worth every step.
